Sunday, February 28, 2010

Taiwan 14 days later...

...about the ups and downs, highs and lows, challenges and rewards


A while ago I wrote about my first impressions of Taiwan. That was written just few days after I arrived here and some of the things turned out to be true and some not. First impressions are always superficial, they may be right, but most likely they're not. So how do things stand now for me in Taiwan?

Well, the first 10 days were really great. Everything was going fine, I was becoming more and more independent. I learned how to take the bus and the MRT train by myself, I went on a big sightseeing tour alone. I was able to order food and drinks by myself. And even though I lived in one of the most traditional Taiwanese cities in Taipei county, which was quite a challenge for me, I somehow found a way to get by. But then I suddenly got sick on the 10th day and everything changed for the worse (at least temporarily).

Being sick and changing apartments

I don't know what hit me, but it looked and felt like flu to me. I was (and still am a bit) dizzy, nauseous and weak with a sore throat and minor headaches. I was stuck inside in my room most of the time. And amid my worst days, I transferred to a smaller room just one floor up (offered by the same landlord). My girl asked the landlord for a cheaper room and that's what we got. It was cheaper and smaller, but still a bit too expensive according to my girl. And we soon realized, that it was way hotter than the one before, so we decided to search for a new accommodation all together. And luckily my girl found a better one very quickly: The room is cooler, it's on ground floor (the old one was on floor 6) and it's located closer to a subway and nearer to Taipei's city center. That means there's no need for me to take buses, I will save on money and time. Taking a bus here is not easy for a Taiwan newbie. You need to catch the right one and alight at the right station. That can be a real challenge, when everything is written in traditional Chinese and the whole environment is unfamiliar to you. Yes, I know some Chinese, but that feels like no Chinese when things get serious.

When they speak Chinese to you

I had few cases, where someone spoke Chinese to me and I had no idea what they're talking about. It's funny, but even though I couldn't look different-er than the locals, everybody assumes that I understand Chinese perfectly. That day, before I got sick, I went out on my sightseeing tour. The stairways were just being cleaned by a man and a young woman. I just left my flat, which was located on the 5th floor, when the young lady, while eating her noodles, started to talk to me in Chinese. I only understood "Are you living here?" and then it was all 漢語漢語漢語 to me O_o. And she went on and on for like 5min, while I kept nodding and thinking about what the *not heaven she wants from me? I assumed she doesn't like that people walk on the stairways while they're being cleaned. Then she started to ask me questions and I replied 我不明白(I don't understand). Finally I decided to call my girl and gave her my phone to talk to me. And what did she want? Apparently she wanted to charge me for the cleaning service, but my girl friend told her, she needs to contact the landlord and discuss the issue with her. No idea, if she wanted to turn a buck from me, but it was a pretty funny situation. Chinese have a saying, that two people are like chicken and duck, when they don't understand each other. So what was I, chicken or duck? :-P

It sucks being sick and about the traffic

My flu really sucked out a lot of energy from me. It put a damper on my initial excitement, made me moody and emotional sometimes. There were times, where I had to go out, but walking would became a real torture. The roads in the area I used to live weren't pedestrian friendly. The sidewalks were occupied by motorbikes and hawkers, so you're forced to walk on the road, where almost every second a motorbike pops up and swings by, missing you by less than a meter. In my previous post about first impressions, I wrote about how smooth the traffic was and how the cars always mind the pedestrians. Well, that impression was wrong, because I observed the traffic during the first days of Chinese new year. Now, that everyone's back to Taipei City, I can see how crazy the traffic can get. The cars are ok, but the motorbikes are crazy: They're literally everywhere. Even in the smallest tiniest lane, there will be someone on a motorbike slowly driving behind you and you have to move aside. You just have to keep an eye on those motor bikers all the time, they come out from every little spot. I've never been in any country with so many of them. Suddenly Malaysian traffic doesn't seem so bad. :-)

There's something in Taiwan that really surprised me!

What would that be? You'll find out soon, but let me fill you in on the situation you may face here. Take-out food is very popular in Taiwan. I mean, why would you cook at home, if you have a hawker virtually on every corner? So you buy food and drinks, bring them home and in a day or two you realize that the plastic bags and bottles stacked up like crazy. So naturally you try to find a waste container nearby to get rid of your trash. And that's what I intended to do. Where's a trash can? Well, there's none near my apartment. Ok, I guess I need to go to the main road and find a public one there, shouldn't be that hard, right? I walk and walk, but there are no trash cans. Weird. I call my girl and ask, where are trash cans located in your country? She says they mostly don't have them. Wow. There are almost no trash cans around Taipei! They have a system garbage trucks driving around neighborhoods once a day in the evening collecting the waste and all the people gather on the streets (you can read more about that here). I seriously had no clue about that. There are some trash cans near the MRT stations and around Taipei's city center, but as far as I've seen, they're rather an exception. So I need to get used to the new way of disposing waste. Will you see me waiting for the garbage truck? Yes, but when I get healthy again. For now, I need to take it easy and rest.

Taipei City is like many small cities grown together

I still don't have a good and proper understanding of Taipei. I still don't feel or grasp Taipei as a city the same way as I have felt Singapore or Penang. But what can I expect after only 2 weeks, right? Taipei seems small at first, but when you take the train to various places around the city, you suddenly feel it's not so small. In fact, it's huge. The whole city feels like a huge chess board, some parts are beautiful and some are not. Take a few steps from a boulevard to a side lane and you will feel as if you left a mega city for a small town. New and modern is beside old and traditional. Food and its smell is everywhere on every corner. I haven't seen many Western tourists and I don't know why. The biggest group of tourists come from China, but I still can't distinguish them from the locals, although my girlfriend says they dress, behave and sound different than Taiwanese. I guess that skill to is developed after living in Taiwan for few months.

There are many beautiful women in Taiwan

Now that the Chinese new year is over, there's much more people in Taipei City. The trains and buses are full, the roads and shopping malls are bustling with people. Many Taiwanese only work in Taipei, but they live outside the city. And if you walk around the city these days, you can spot so many beautiful women, it's beyond your imagination. Of course, that's my subjective opinion, maybe some of you would not be impressed at all, but that's why impressions are called impressions and not facts, right? :-) Well, what I see here, I can only compare to what I saw and noticed in Malaysia, Singapore and Hong Kong before. I must say beautiful women-wise, Taiwan trumps all those places. The girls here really dress well and there's many of them, you can't not notice that. The most common sight in this winter are black stockings, boots combined with short skirts in all variations. Women here are very feminine and female beauty seems to be very important to the Taiwanese society, at least that's my impression. You don't only see that on Taipei's streets, you see that on TV every day: Beautiful women dominate most of the shows. From daily talk shows to various (sometimes weird) nightly shows of cute girls in bikinis playing some silly games... For me, beautiful women are the most common sight on Taiwanese TV and on Taipei's streets. Of course you have to forgive me my male eyes, they can be so biased towards female beauty, it's outrageous :-P

I'm in my new apartment and I have a problem

In case you're wondering what's up with that photo of the remote control, let me showcase to you, how small things can be a real challenge. My girl went back to her home and I realized I can't turn down the volume on the TV. Which button should I press, it's all in Chinese O_o. I don't wanna press any wrong ones and mess up something the settings or something. So yeah, that's what happens when you're a duck in a chicken country :-P It's just one of the numerous small things that make you chuckle. Anyway, I'll be fine. I'll off my TV soon and sleep. I need to rest and get better. And then my adventure shall continue. I have tons of things to do. Every day lost because of my flu is a real pain, but what can I do? Be hopeful and positive is what I try. :-)

Ps: Hope you're not bored with my posts about Taiwan sights. I want my blog to become a good source of information to all, who are interested in Taiwan. But when I cover all the main and important things, my blogging style will return to how it was before my Taiwan trip :-)

[Photo by MKL, 2010]

228 Peace Memorial Park, Taipei

Former Taihoku park and Taipei new park


Part of my big tour of Taipei was strolling along the lovely 228 Peace Memorial Park in Taipei's old district Zhongzheng. It's full of palms and old trees and lovely pavilions built in old Chinese style. I really had a relaxing time here.

[Link: 228 Incident][Photo by MKL, 2010]

Saturday, February 27, 2010

Longshan Temple 龍山寺, Taipei

The famous Dragon mountain temple


The Mengjia Longshan temple 艋舺龍山寺 is one of the most popular sights in Taipei, which is mentioned in every brochure and travel guide about Taipei City. It was built in 1738. That's very old for Taiwan. I decided to head there on a very hot day, it was nearly 30 degrees. Because it was still Chinese new year, there were many people. To my surprise, I didn't see any Western tourists. I was there around 1am, maybe it was too early for them? I don't know. Most of the people were locals. This is what I saw:

The area around the Longshan temple (when you come out of Longshan MRT station).

Former red light district in Taipei.

My girlfriend told me, that this street used to be Taipei's red light district. Yep, I was surprised, too. You wouldn't assume there will be one near a prominent temple, but apparently that's was problem until the late 1990s, when they banned prostitution here. So if she and I would walk here hand in hand, people would assume I am XXX and she is xxx. There's been some talk about legalizing prostitution again (read here).

A fountain nearby splashed the water and refreshed me. Well, not really.

The temple from closer.

The craftsmanship was exquisite here.

Wish I could read all this.


When I went inside, I was a bit hesitant to take photos, but then I saw others taking them and I made few myself. The temple is not too big, but not small either. It's very colorful and full of ornaments, most noticeable the dragons on the roof.

There was a lot of people and some women looked very beautiful.

A woman praying, while another is lighting candles.

The courtyard was really lively that day.

People holding joss sticks.

When I walked around the area I saw a lot of old people.

Longshan area is probably the place to be for elderly Taiwanese.

I've never seen so many old people at one place in Taipei. They hang out and rest there all day, I guess. And it's funny, because the Longshan temple is located very close to Ximending, the most trendy district for young people. The whole area around the temple is one of the oldest in Taipei. And very close is the famous Snake Alley at the Huaxi street as well as the Guangzhou Street Night Market, where local people like to eat. If you come to Taipei, you definitely need to see this temple and the whole area.

[My TAIPEI page][My TAIWAN page][All photos by MKL, 2010]

Friday, February 26, 2010

Taipei 101, Taiwan's landmark skyscraper

My photos and impressions of the former world's tallest building

Taipei 101 in July 2010 on a hot summer day.

I love skyscrapers! I've always been fascinated with high-rise buildings and when I got the chance to see the Petronas Twin Towers in Kuala Lumpur (or KLCC) in 2005, I was really excited, it felt like a dream came true. And I have to say, I was totally amazed, my jaw literally dropped (hey, I'm from Slovenia, we don't have skyscrapers!). Those famous twin towers will always remain the first mega-structure I saw and all the other buildings have to measure up with them. Of course I knew then, that KLCC was just surpassed by Taipei 101 and I always wondered how Taipei 101 might look in real. And few days ago I had the chance to see this building in real for the first time. And you may wonder now: Is it as impressive as KLCC? Is it as breathtaking?

Taipei 101 is very close to the Taipei City Hall building.

Taipei 101 is changing colors every day. It's yellow on Wednesday night.

Taipei 101 on a Sunday night, indicated by the violet lighting.

Taipei 101 on a Thursday night.

A very posh shopping mall is located inside the lower floors of Taipei 101.

FIRST IMPRESSION: Compared to KLCC, Taipei 101 doesn't feel as monumental, because it's just one single tower. And the main part of the building is actually 390m tall, actually it's that smaller thinner part on top (with the antenna), that makes the structure 509m tall. But when you see the building from below, you feel like that part doesn't really count, you can't really see it. Feels like they just added it to surpass KLCC's height. But all that was my first impression.

Taipei 101 is formerly world's tallest building and the pride of Taiwan.

SECOND IMPRESSION: Taipei 101 looks much better at a second glance. I love the color, the design and the symbolism behind it. When you walk around the area below the building, you feel safe, you feel like you're part of something extraordinary and revolutionary. Let me tell you: You are part of that. I love the way the building lights up at night, the way the colors change every day of the week. One day I will take photos every single day of the week from the same location just to get the whole color range. My most awesome experience with Taipei 101 was when I celebrated my 30th birthday on the 85th floor of the building and enjoyed a great view of Taipei City (check the link below). Looking out of that window at over 370m was for me, a passionate skyscraper fan, the best day of my life so far. If you have the chance, go up there, you will never regret it.

Taipei 101 is located in Xinyi, which is full of shopping malls.

AROUND TAIPEI 101: I love Xinyi, the area around the building. It's modern, it's full of architectural gems and a very quickly growing district. It's one of my favorite parts of Taipei City. I usually take the subway to the Taipei City Hall MRT station and walk around the whole new area, full of shopping malls and cafés. The area (see photo above) lights up beautifully at night. And they're still building here (as in 2010), which means it will become even more awesome.

PARTS OF TAIPEI 101:

Taipei 101 is full of symbolism and deep meanings. Pay attention to the details.

SYMBOLISM: When you see Taipei 101 from close, you notice the interesting symbolism. The main part is made of 8 segments, because 8 is a lucky number in Chinese culture and symbolizes wealth. The whole building resembles a Chinese pagoda or a bamboo stick. On each side of the four cardinal directions there are a huge discs resembling ancient Chinese royalty money. So it's all about money and good luck, a very common theme in Chinese tradition (source). And since I'm a big fan of symbolism and details, I saw the whole building with different eyes. The more often I go near Taipei 101, the more it grows on me. It has a certain magic, it calms you, but it doesn't intimidate you. I love it!

Read my other posts about Taipei 101:

My supersized Taipei 101 photo, high-definition
My best Taipei 101 at day photos, high-definition
My best Taipei 101 at night photos, high-definition
Taipei 101 Mall, my photos and impressions
My 30th Birthday on top of Taipei 101, amazing
Taipei 101 and Petronas Twin towers, comparison
Taipei 101 through the seasons, three photos
Taipei 101 in summer 2010, a photo
Love in Taipei sculpture, photo and info
World's most expensive garden, found near Taipei 101

What's your impression of Taipei 101?

[My TAIPEI page][SKYSCRAPERS][Sources: Wiki, Article][All photos by MKL, 2010]

Liberty Square, Taipei

One of Taiwan's most famous squares


On the photo above you can see one of the most popular tourist attractions in Taipei City. The big Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall (國立中正紀念堂), a huge 70m tall hall located in the Zhongzheng district, is the most dominant building at the Liberty Square (自由廣場). The whole area is full of colossal buildings, but this memorial hall is the most prominent one. It was completed in 1980 and dedicated to former president of the Republic of China: Chiang Kai-shek (蔣中正). In case you want to visit the square, exit at the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall MRT Station and you're there. It's very easy to find.

He is a prominent, however not always cherished and liked historic political figure in Taiwan (actually important for all of China). Along with Mao Zedong and Sun Yatsen, he's probably the most influential Chinese political figure of the 20th century.


Near the CKS Memorial Hall are also the National Theater (國家戲劇院) and National Concert Hall (國家音樂廳) of the Republic of China, as well as the monumental Gate of Great Centrality and Perfect Uprightness (大中至正門). Liberty Square is huge and important and one of the main tourist spots of Taipei City. If you travel to Taipei, you surely need to see this amazing place.

Liberty Square from the air (from Google Maps).

The National Theater of the Republic of China in February 2010.

The Gate of Great Centrality and Perfect Uprightness at Liberty square in May 2010.

Read my posts about the buildings on Liberty square:

My photos of CKS Memorial Hall, Feb 2010>>
My photos of CKS Memorial Hall, May 2010>>

[My TAIPEI page][My TAIWAN page][All photos by MKL, 2010]

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Taiwanese cuisine 台灣菜

This is a collection of Taiwanese dishes


Taiwanese food, where to start? One word: Abundance! I've been around Asia, I've seen Singapore, Penang, Kuala Lumpur, Kowloon and many more places with famous food, but what I've seen in Taipei and the small surrounding towns in just few weeks was beyond my wildest expectations and can't be compared to any other places I've traveled before. There's a hawker literally on every corner or every free spot, if it's not occupied by scooters. And I'm not even talking about day and night markets here, but just regular streets. Taiwan is food paradise and that's felt everywhere you go. I decided to make a list of all the typical and less typical Taiwanese dishes I have tried so far. They will be listed by the sort or main ingredient and in alphabetic order. My intention is to show you what kind of cuisine to expect, if you come to Taiwan. I will also add a brief introduction and the price, but keep in mind, that prices change through time and vary based on the region. This post will only focus on main dishes and non-sweet snacks, drinks and desserts are listed here.

Click here to be redirected to photos of particular types of food:

BAOZIBLOODCRÊPESDUMPLINGSEGGSFOOD MIXMEATMEAT BY-PRODUCTSNOODLESPOTATOESRICESAUSAGESSOUPSSPRING ROLLSTOFU

Taiwanese cuisine in photos starts here:

BAOZI

Fried baozi.

BLOOD

Duck's blood.

CRÊPES

Common Taiwanese crêpe.

DUMPLINGS

Steamed dumplings.

Dumplings in soup.

EGGS

Iron Eggs from Danshui.

FOOD MIX

Pig's skin, broccoli and tofu in the mix. A popular snack.

MEAT

Famous chicken cutlet from Shilin.

Pork with rice eaten in Kaohsiung.

MEAT BY-PRODUCTS

Pig's skin.

NOODLES

Noodles with seafood.

Ah Zongs flour rice noodles.

Beef noodles.

Famous noodles in Taichung.

OMELETTES

Oyster omelette.

Typical Taiwanese lunch: Oyster omelette, vegetables, fried noodles, fish ball soup.

Omelette in Kaohsiung.

POTATOES

Potato on a stick, a popular snack.

RICE

A bowl of rice.

Glutinous rice.

SAUSAGES

Fried sausages.

SOUPS

Sour soup, usually served with dumplings.

This is sweet soup.

Soup in Tainan.

Also in Tainan.

Oyster soup.

Frog soup.

SPRING ROLLS

A Taiwanese breakfast.

TOFU

Cooked stinky tofu.

Tofu in a sauce.

My Kafkaesque life © 2008. Design by :Yanku Templates Sponsored by: Tutorial87 Commentcute